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New York: Backstage at Louise Goldin Spring 2014


Futuristic, streamlined, and modern art inspired, the Louise Goldin Spring 2014 collection required an equally dynamic hair and beauty look to accentuate the collection. To get the look that would bring the collection together, the designer tapped Rene Furterer, MAC Cosmetics and Butter London to get it done.

Here's what they did, first up that extraordinary hair, which is very possibly the most complicated endeavor we've ever seen at fashion week. 

Designed by Anthony Turner of Art Partner, the looks were created to be "Something unreal to offset the clean architectural lines of the clothes." To do this the team started sectioning off a length of hair with a rattail comb at the crown, and coiled the length to sit at the top of the crown before clipping it into place. Using a rattail comb again, the team made a side part over the right eye and smoothed generous amounts of Rene Furterer Vegetal Sculpting Gel onto the hair on both sides of the part and smoothed it into hair. Once the gel, and any flyaways were completely slathered, hair was then wrapped around the head from the back on the left side and all the way over to the right, from ear to ear. Next, taking hair in sections from left to right and misting hair with water to help smooth and flatten hair even further, the team repeated this step until all hair was wrapped over to the right. Turner explained ,"The René Furterer Vegetal Sculpting Gel acted as a molding agent to sculpt and 'plaster down' the hair, holding it in place while adding an incredible gleaming finish."

Once all hair was wrapped over to the right, the team removed the clip from the coiled hair at the crown, uncoiled the section, misted it with water and brushed through the section with a Mason Pearson brush. 

Next, (we told you this was complicated!) the team took the section and wound it into a flat swirling pattern at the crown, slipping in a few pins to secure it. The team then ran a blow-dryer with nozzle attachment over hair while misting René Furterer Vegetal Finishing Spray to set and secure the look.

"When hair is this sleek and smoothed down, it calls for something unreal and unexpected to catch the eye on the runway." as Turner explained the next aspect of the look. "To play against the spectrum of tones in Louise Goldin’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection which ranged from pale powder pink to deep emerald green with lots of black and white I gave each head a few swipes of stark white hair 'paint.' We made it pliable and easy to work onto hair when we mixed it with René Furterer LISSEA leave-in smoothing fluidwhich also helped to keep the hair in good condition. The horizontal swipe of white also reflects the graphic shapes of the clothes." Last but not least, the team took lengths of a rubbery tape from a trimmings store and criss-crossed it over the head tying the ends at the nape of the head - a futuristic twist on the classic Greek goddess head wrap.

Now onto the make-up. 

An understated and natural look with an accented lip, the beauty look was inspired by "90's Vanessa Paradis, fresh, clean, polished, but rough." The look began with MAC Mineralized Moisture Gel applied with the fingers. MAC Prep and Primer Pen was then used to correct (if needed) under the eye and along the nose with a #242 brush. Prep and Prime loose powder was then pressed into the skin with a #116 brushMAC CCB was then pressed into cheeks, nose, cupid's bow and temples to highlight. For eyes, MAC HUSH CCB was patted onto the lids with fingers, and a touch of Pearl CCB was added to the center of the lid and tear duct to brighten eyes. MAC Penultimate Liner was used to thinly accentuate the upper lash line, and brows were brushed with clear brush set. Finally, lips were lined with MAC Stripdown Pencil to perfect the shape, then Cultivating Chic, from the Spring 2014 Trend Forecast  Eye Palette was tapped into center of the lip.

Finally, the nails

A simple paired down look that was "inspired by summer activities, tennis, and concerts" the theme from Butter London started with Navi Foundation over the entire nail, and then added a thin coat of Pink Ribbon.

All images: S. Whittle for Style Wylde.  

For more from the Louise Goldin Spring 2014 show, check out the Style Wylde runway feature here